For some Vietnam is synonymous with motorcycles. Everywhere you look there is a motorcycle; maybe its a motorcycle cruising along a bouncy countryside road driven by a ten year old, or an entire family or five heading to the movies, or someone helping to move a neighbour’s refrigerator to a new home across town. It is a joy to sit and watch the impossibilities that are absurdly achievable on a motorbike in Vietnam. Nevertheless this is the way people get around.

Xe Om Culture in Vietnam

Most tourists on their Vietnam tour will opt to take the visually safer option, the taxi. However, if you are a one or two persons, most Vietnamese will suggest the much quicker, and generally cheaper, xe om (pronounced ’say ohm’), motorcycle taxi. On just about every corner - and usually the same drivers are found on the same corners everyday - you will find ready and waiting xe om drivers. All are equipped with helmets for their passengers (as it now is the law in Vietnam) as well as intense bargaining skills.

The prices usually range on how many people you want to take on the motorbike (two people are feasible, but best to take only one), how bad the road may be, and how far you want to go. Approximately 10,000 - 15,000 dong per kilometre is reasonable, but you will find that the price gets cheaper as your Vietnamese gets better.

Nevertheless, finally strapping on your helmet, mounting the bike, then whizzing off into the busy motorcycle-filled streets of Vietnam is true exhilaration. Becoming a part of the organized chaos that is Vietnam traffic is an amazing experience; and, actually relatively safe. No one is ever going that fast and the rules of the road in Vietnam are conducive to the number of users. A beep of the horn is not to tell someone to get the heck out of way, instead it is to say hey there, I’m coming up on your left.

So even if it is to take a few evening laps around Hanoi’s Hoan Kiem lake, it is highly suggested that you get your wits about you, and head out into the streets of Vietnam on a motorcycle!

For getting around the Hanoi, there is nothing better than the Xe Om (motorcycle taxi) for zipping around traffic. My advice before getting on a Xe Om: (A) chose one with a good motorcycle (ie., one made by one of the 4 major motorcycle manufacturers in Vietnam - Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, or SYM); (B) chose a middle-aged driver (too young and they may drive too fast, too old and they may not maneuver as well around Hanoi's crazy traffic); (C) chose a driver with white white eyes (this is to make sure they haven't been drinking). Witnessing collisions on the streets of Hanoi are all to common so be careful. Many streets have no traffic lights!

The price of a Xe Om ride is not rocket science. Although supposedly around 10,000VND (.60USD) per 3km I normally give 15,000VND (.90USD). That should be enough to cover travel within the city. Also, I'd advise negotiating the price first as Xe Om drivers will often ask for more than whatever you give them.

Taxis

Taxis are the number one place where even the savviest travelers are taken advantage of—yes, even you!  Vietnam is no exception.  That’s why you should only take licensed taxis that have official meters.

The scamming may start as soon as you step out of the airport. It usually starts when you're approached by a "limo driver" who says he's just finished his shift and could use a little extra cash.  “Care for a lift?”  Most of the time you will eventually get to your destination, but only after the driver you takes you on a scenic, roundabout tour of the city, perhaps even stopping to pick up more passengers for the joy ride.  All the while your fare is hiking up to an undetermined amount as your “driver” judges how much he thinks he can get out of you.    

Being overcharged may be the least of your worries with an airport ‘limo service’.  A common trick in Vietnam is that the driver will set a reasonable flat fee with you before taking you to your hotel, but then hold your luggage hostage in the trunk until you pay him a hefty ransom.

How can we beat these scammers at their own game? 

NEVER EVER accept a ride with anyone who does not have a working meter and a displayed license. 

Doing so not only puts your money in danger, but more importantly, your safety.  Being grossly overcharged by a fake taxi in Vietnam might put a damper on your vacation, but losing a little extra cash pales in comparison to the risks of kidnapping, assault or robbery. 

Scam artists have been known to pose as taxi drivers and take off with your luggage. They have also taken unsuspecting tourists to a deserted area and then robbed and/or assaulted them. 

Airport ride - Ian's story

“When I visited Ho Chi Minh I was immediately approached by taxi drivers at the airport (outside the arrival gates) who tried to take my bags and usher me into their taxis. I asked about price to my hotel in a central district and  was quoted $40 USD. I refused and was then immediately offered the same ride for $20. I made my way out to the taxi rank and negotiated a much 'fairer' fare of $8 USD, including toll fares, which is roughly what most guidebooks suggest.
When in SE Asia I try to put the price I'm paying into perspective of their local cost of living. In my experience of Vietnam taxi drivers would consistently quote about double the 'fair' price - and if you don't barter you're paying for a very expensive ride!”

Avoid Being Shortchanged

If you suspect you were scammed, try to write down specifics about the driver and/or the taxi so you can file a police report later. 
Even the licensed, metered guys try to get their fair share in the action.  “Shortchanging” is one of the most common tourist scams in Vietnam not only in taxi taxis but in gift shops as well.  It takes full advantage of two common assumptions-that the tourist does not know the language and is unfamiliar with the local currency.  It allows them to take advantage of the full spectrum of tourists-from ripping off frugal backpackers to swindling carefree wealthy travelers.

Easy fix to shortchanging—next time you travel, count your money out loud as you hand it to the taxi driver or cashier, bill by bill, and make them confirm the amount out loud to you while it’s in their hands. 

Seasoned travelers often try to avoid taxis altogether and instead opt for riding bikes, walking or public transportation when available.

Top tips for good Taxi experiences:

• Ask your hotel or hostel where to find a legit taxi
• Take a business card from your guest house or hotel with you - it's easy to show this to a taxi driver after a long day and few beers and be reassured that you won't have a Lost in Translation moment.
• Familiarize yourself with a map to learn the main streets, and pay attention to where the taxi is taking you.
• Make sure the meter is turned on and ask the driver what the rate will be to make sure you are being charged an appropriate fare.
• Look for a car number and company marked on the outside, a registration and driver information card displayed on the dashboard, and a list of charges on display.
• Study the rate list when you first sit down in the taxi.  Make it very blatant to the driver that you are checking out the rates—this will keep him from trying any funny business.
• Make sure all taxis you enter are legal, fully-licensed, and in good condition (i.e. inner door handles that work and proper seatbelts).
• Above all else, trust your inner traveler instincts.  If something seems the least bit fishy, stop the taxi, pay the driver, and hightail it out of there!